A bra can be your best friend or your worst enemy; ultimately, it all comes down to the fit. Wearing the correct size is crucial to forming a symbiotic relationship with your closest supporters, according to the lingerie experts at Aerie, DKNY, ThirdLove, and Triumph.
As obvious as this may seem, many of the common gripes women have about their intimates stem from wearing the wrong cup or band size. Straps that dig, rising back-bands, chafing, and back bulge are all, on the whole, issues that derive from fit. We highly recommend a professional bra fitting if you've never had one or it's been a while; you might be surprised by how your results match up with your current underwear-drawer rotation.
Ahead, we tackle 10 familiar problems and offer up practical solutions — plus 30 bras you can shop to help solve them now.
The Problem: Rising Back-Band
If your bra’s band isn’t parallel to the floor all the way around your body, you’re not doing your girls any favors. To be fair, though, a rising back-band isn’t exactly your bra’s fault; it's just not the right size.
As ThirdLove ’s vice president of design Ra’el Cohen explains, this is most likely happening because “you’re wearing a band size that’s too big.” It’s possible you bought the wrong size; it’s also possible the band is simply stretched out from wear and needs replacing. DKNY ’s executive vice president Cathy Volker adds that “over time, bras lose their elasticity, causing the band to be looser than when you first purchased it. It is recommended that you replace your bras every six to 12 months.”
If you think this may be your problem, Cohen suggests sizing down a width (say, from 36 to 34). Pro tip: “Remember, when you get a smaller band size, you need to go one size bigger in the cup. If you are a 36C, for example, your tighter band would be 34D.”
"You'll know you're in the right band size when you can slip two fingers underneath the back of the band," Cohen explains. "The band should be snug on the loosest hook, so when your bra stretches out you can continue to tighten it."
Stella McCartney, $65.00, available at Stella McCartney
Simone Perele's plunge bra is available in a range of cup and band sizes.
Simone Perele, $89.00, available at Simone Perele
"Women tend to wear one to two sizes too large," according to Triumph 's planning and product director Isabelle Stahl. "If your band is not snug around the body, you’re not getting the proper support."
Curvy Kate, $49.50, available at Evans
Choosing a bra with a set of multiple back hooks, versus a singular hook in the front, will allow you to adjust as the elastic wears.
Naja, $85.00, available at Naja
The Problem: Spillage Over Your Cups
Simply put, if you’re experience spillage over your cups (or the dreaded uniboob), your bra is too small. “This issue is particularly common in women with larger busts,” Volker explains. “To prevent cup spillage, consider a full coverage bra, like the DKNY Fusion Full Coverage Bra — a full cup provides extra support and coverage.” Aerie fit expert Jenny Altman agrees. “Keep your band size as is, but move up at least one letter in your cup size (A to B, B to C, and so on),” Altman says. She adds that, in some cases, increasing multiple cup sizes (going from an A to D cup, for example) is necessary to alleviate spillage.
“If moving up in the cup size isn’t the answer, then your problem may be in the style bra you are wearing,” Altman continues. Some women have fuller or shallower breast than others. If you’re at the fuller end of the spectrum, “a demi cup, for example, gives you less coverage than a full cup. It might be worth changing styles for something with more coverage all around your breast,” Altman notes.
"Not every bra style offers a perfect fit on every body type," Altman explains. "A wider smile (the wire that goes around each breast) from a full cup could be your answer" to spillage.
ThirdLove, $68.00, available at ThirdLove
Full-coverage styles don't have to be dowdy or matronly, as evidenced here.
Berlei, $59.00, available at Journelle
A perfect everyday essential, this full-cup bra is available up to a size 40J.
Panache, $48.00, available at Figleaves
The Problem: Breasts That Swim In Your Cups
The opposite of having spillage over your cups, you have more room in there than you legitimately need or want. “A full-coverage bra can often cause extra space in the cups for women with smaller busts. If you’re smaller on top, a demi-cup bra is best, since the silhouette provides great lift with less coverage,” Volker says. Similarly, balconette-style intimates will flatter shallower breasts, as they are not a full-cup shape, either.
While they can be an issue for smaller-breasted women, Cohen notes that puckering cups are also "fairly common for women with separated or splayed breast shapes. Since your breast is resting at the bottom of the cup, it leaves room at the top for unsightly gaping.” Her advice: “First, try tightening the straps. Sometimes that's all you need to do.” If that doesn’t fix it, she suggests going down a cup size (or half a size!), or experimenting with the types of bras you’re wearing. “If your cup fits well but there's a little room at the top, try plunge or push-up bras. These cups are angled, and tend to be cut a little smaller to reduce gaping.”
"If a full cup is just too roomy, pick a style with less coverage," Altman advises. Cosabella's best-selling demi-cup bra boasts unbeatable comfort to boot.
Cosabella, $104.50, available at Cosabella
A T-shirt bra doesn't have to be full-coverage; they come in demi cups as well.
Negative, $75.00, available at Negative
Balconettes are pretty universally flattering across different breast types; think of them like a sexier everyday bra.
Myla, $775.00, available at Myla
The Problem: Back Bulge
The catch-22 of bra problems: You need support from your band (it does about 80% of the work, according to Stahl). But, the back bulge that can pop up around it? Not your favorite.
It could be that the band is too tight, and you need to go up a size (from 32 to 34, for example). “If you are in the right band size and still can’t beat the bulge, then it’s about the bra itself,” Altman explains. The band might be too narrow to accommodate your specific shape. “Styles with wider backs provide a smooth look under the arms and across the back,” says Volker. Look for bras in smooth, stretchy fabrics that will support you without digging in. Longline bras are another option, if you’re exploring wider bands.
"Search for smoothing and invisible T-shirt bras when you want to eliminate back bulge," Cohen recommends.
Triumph, $50.00, available at Triumph
Longline bras — like the Lonely style here — offer wearers an extra-wide band all around.
Lonely, $109.00, available at Lonely
Montelle's wide-banded bra is available in cups D to G.
Montelle, $52.00, available at Journelle
The Problem: Straps That Slip
Constantly fidgeting with your bra straps isn’t a good look — or a comfortable one. First things first: Tighten your straps. “It seems obvious, but as we wear a bra, the straps start to stretch out,” Cohen notes. The fit expert recommends tightening your straps every other month.
If slipping straps persist even after tightening, you may have narrow or sloped shoulders, so bra straps are more prone to falling down your arm. “If you feel your straps slipping on your current bra, try switching to a style that has straps that sit closer together in the back, like a racerback bra,” Volker suggests. “Ones enhanced with silicone strips are another great option," she says, as the friction from the silicone “will help straps stay in place and for added support and comfort.”
“Balconette and plunge bras tend to have wider-set straps, so if you have narrow or sloping shoulders, these styles can exacerbate the strap issue.” Cohen warns.
Victoria's Secret, $54.50, available at Victoria's Secret
And, you thought narrow shoulders were a bad thing. Free People's super-strappy racerback bra begs to differ.
Free People, $48.00, available at Free People
Straps that cross at the back provide additional lift; they'll also prevent your straps from sliding down your arm all day long.
NOE Undergarments, $110.00, available at Net-A-Porter
The Problem: Straps That Dig
“This common fit issue causes women to rip their bras off the moment they walk in the door at the end of a long day,” Cohen says. Sound familiar? While it could be that your straps are too tight and need a simple adjustment, Altman and Cohen explain that the problem's cause isn’t always quite what you’d expect. “If your straps are digging in, you might be surprised to learn the answer goes back to the band. A too-big band that’s not giving your breasts enough support almost always causes painful straps. Because they're counting on your straps to do all of the heavy lifting,” Altman explains.
“Try buying bras in band size smaller,” Cohen recommends. “Another tip for anyone over a D cup is to buy a style with narrower straps. These styles have straps that are centered on your shoulder, so the weight of the breast is evenly distributed.”
Ditch bras with bands that have lost their elasticity over time and invest in new ones for optimal support.
Naja, $75.00, available at Naja
Remember: It's the band that should be doing the heavy lifting, not the straps.
Calvin Klein, $42.00, available at Net-A-Porter
If your straps feel tight and you're wearing your correct band size, make sure you loosen your straps for additional comfort.
L'Agent, $92.00, available at Journelle
The Problem: Nipples Feel Overexposed
To show or not show your nipples is a personal choice. If you prefer to keep them under wraps, lightly lined cups are an easy solution for added coverage. Bras with a natural look forgo molding and padding, but those with added foam or fabric won’t leave you feeling overexposed. “If you have bras you already love but that allow too much show through, stick gel petals on them,” Altman suggests.
Morgan Lane's Drake bra features double-lined cups, adding just the right amount of support and coverage.
Morgan Lane, $148.00, available at Morgan Lane
Chantelle's lightly molded cups provide you with a seamless look under clothing.
Chantelle, $78.00, available at Journelle
The satin finish on Topshop's balconette bra is fetching. The lightly padded, underwire cups are an added bonus.
Topshop, $35.00, available at Topshop
The Problem: Center Gore Isn’t Flat Against Your Chest
A general rule of thumb for bras: The center gore (the connecting strap between your two cups) should lay flat against your chest. If it doesn’t, then one of three things is happening: “Either your band is too big, your cup is too small, or the bra style is not a good fit for your breast type,” Cohen says.
“If your band is too big, that’s an easy fix,” she explains. Simply go down a band size — keeping in mind the guidelines we explained earlier.
“If your cup is too small, it's time to trade up for a bigger one — give your breasts some breathing room.” If you find that a full cup size up is too big, ThirdLove conveniently offers half-cup sizes, because they’re awesome and inclusive like that.
If it’s your breast type that’s preventing the gore from laying flat, the solution is slightly more complicated — but, there is a solution, we promise. If your two breasts are touching or almost touching, you want to look for a gore with cups that are close together (or even touching) to work with the natural curve of your figure. “Sometimes the shape of the gore is too tall [or wide] for your breast shape,” Cohen says. Try shopping a different cup shape, like a demi or plunge bra, that has a narrower and lower-set gore.
(Not sure what your breast type is? More on that here.)
The center gore is intentionally slimmed or lowered in plunge styles.
Natori, $68.00, available at Natori
A J-hook converts OnGossamer's plunge bra from standard to racerback, depending on your outfit's needs.
OnGossamer, $46.00, available at Journelle
"Always make sure the gore is right up against your breastbone. If it’s not touching your skin, then go up a cup size until it does," Stahl advises.
ThirdLove, $49.00, available at ThirdLove
The Problem: Chafing Is Irritating Your Skin
Your bra shouldn’t hurt you. If yours is causing pain or chafing, something's up. “Sometimes, it’s about a more breathable fabric, but sometimes it’s about the right support system,” Altman says. “Most chafing in bras happens when your breasts are rubbing together or against your rib cage. This shows how important it is to have proper breast separation (each breast needs to be fully encapsulated in the cup, they should not be touching) and lift (the breasts should be lifted away from your rib cage).”
Choosing light, breathable fabrics, like cotton and lace, is also important to keep chafing at bay — harsh materials can irritate sensitive skin. “Styles that include moisture-wicking technology provide added dryness and comfort,” Volker adds.
You should also think about your bra’s elastic. “Anytime you have elastic against your skin, you run the risk of chafing,” Cohen notes. “I recommend getting a style that has a double layer of fabric at the back with enclosed elastic. The beauty of a back-smoothing style like this is that the fabric lies against your body instead of the irritating elastic.”
The perfect, wireless T-shirt bra is made from luxurious Supima cotton.
Sloane & Tate, $53.00, available at Sloane & Tate
A soft lace bralette "is perfect for a hot summer day; you get lift and coverage with an open, breathable (and colorful!) lace fabric," says Altman.
Aerie, $26.95, available at American Eagle Outfitters
The simple luxury of organic cotton...
Base Range, $46.69, available at Base Range
The Problem: Boob Sweat
“No one likes to admit it, but let’s get real: Boob sweat is an issue for most women at some point in their lives,” Cohen points out. Hey, it happens! Thankfully, the fix for this is an easy one: “Choosing light, breathable fabrics, like cotton, to absorb the perspiration,” makes all the difference, Stahl says. “Bralettes are great option, since they give you coverage without the use of heavy-duty technical features like wire,” Altman explains.
If you’re really sweating this issue, Volker prescribes switching to a bra made of material with moisture-wicking technology during the warmer months. Stahl also advises washing your delicates with greater frequency, “so that bacteria and sweat don’t build up.” It sounds obvious, but it’s worth repeating — especially if laundry day often eludes you for a few weeks at a time. Again, it happens.
This Bodyism bra is cut from moisture-wicking, stretch fabric to keep you cool, comfortable, and supported throughout your workout.
Bodyism, $85.00, available at Net-A-Porter
This sporty piece is great for running, aerobics, and higher impact workouts.
Anita, $69.00, available at True&Co
Community's cotton-spandex blend is designed with double-layered cups and adjustable elastic straps for increased support.
Community, $30.00, available at AritziaLike what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
The Most Flattering Shorts For YOUR Butt
18 Denim Shorts That Are Always Cool, Never Basic
Espadrilles: The Affordable Summer Shoe We Didn't Realize We Needed