Base makeup is one of those notoriously hard beauty products to shop for. Like picking out jeans or bras, the process takes time, commitment, and patience. The trial-and-error situation gets even harder when you only have a handful of choices — all of which are typically nowhere near your actual complexion shade.
Unfortunately, this is the harsh reality for women of color. There's a whole spectrum of "fair" shades on the market, while those with more pigment are left choosing between "tan" and "brown." (And, don't even get us started on "one shade fits all.")
Thankfully, according to CoverGirl makeup artist Jennifer Fleming, there's been progress over the past few years. "Many brands are offering shade extensions catering to a much wider range of skin tones and complexions," she says. "As the world continues to become more blended, there will always be work to do."
According to makeup artist Sir John, who's worked with everyone from Queen Bey to Joan Smalls, not having a uniform complexion is another big problem that plagues women with darker skin. "Women of color — [and that includes] Pacific Islander, Asian, Latin-American — have two different colors that they're working with," he says. "They're lighter in the center of the face, and they’re usually deeper around the hairline and under the cheekbones." To counter that, he suggests mixing two products: one that matches your hue and one that's slightly darker. Genius.
Ahead, get more base-makeup wisdom from these pros, along with their go-to brands for women of color.
“The shade range is the real star of this foundation line,” says celebrity makeup artist Tasha Reiko Brown. The foundation also boasts some big benefits for oily skin types by providing medium coverage and mattifying without settling into lines or looking heavy. “The undertones are spot-on and you get a lot of pigment in a lovely texture. The coverage is buildable and sheers out easily when mixed with moisturizer,” she adds.
Black Up Mattifying Fluid Foundation, $41.50, available at Black Up.
This full-coverage foundation never looks cakey on the skin, thanks to a healthy boost of jojoba esters and sunflower-seed wax in its formula.
Marc Jacobs Re(marc)able Full Cover Foundation Concentrate, $55, available at Sephora.
There are long-lasting foundations that slough off on your collar/scarf/significant other pretty much immediately. Then there's this 24-hour workhorse, which sticks around until you choose to wash it off. Also? Even though the formula is heavy-duty, the matte and oil-free finish is completely elegant.
Lancôme Teint Idole Ultra 24H Foundation, $47, available at Sephora.
MAC’s Studio Fix Fluid SPF 15 foundation is renowned for not only helping to control oil throughout the day, but also for delivering a matte finish in a whopping 35 shades.
MAC Studio Fix Fluid Foundation, $27, available at MAC.
This completely lightweight foundation finishes matte (like your dream skin) and is available in 18 different shades, that play to undertones as well. So, if you know you have dark golden undertones to your skin or you have a hint of a warm undertone in there, there is a shade for you.
Urban Decay Naked Skin Weightless Ultra Definition Liquid Makeup, $40, available at Sephora.
Becca is well-known for its shade varieties when it comes to foundation. And the Ultimate Coverage Complexion Crème is a full-coverage foundation that doesn’t feel like one — basically, what everyone is looking for. If your skin tone is between shades, choose a shade lighter because of the full-coverage pigments. Or, you can always mix and match.
Becca Cosmetics Ultimate Coverage Complexion Crème, $44, available at Becca Cosmetics.
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Laura Mercier’s Candleglow Soft Luminous Foundation comes in a whopping 24 shades. The foundation itself is ultra-flattering with a formula that builds from sheer to medium, depending on your preference. It also contains pearly bits of mica to lend a lit-from-within (albeit not over-the-top sparkly) glow to your skin. (Pro tip: To give your foundation extra staying power, use a powder puff to press and roll a translucent loose setting powder over top, slowly working the powder into your skin.)
Laura Mercier Candleglow Soft Luminous Foundation, $48, available at Laura Mercier.
Laura Mercier, $48.00, available at Laura Mercier
The one product Sir John swears up and down by is NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer. "No matter the complexion, it’s something I use on everyone, from Karlie Kloss to Naomi [Campbell]," he says. "It runs the gamut color-wise, and it doesn’t look like makeup on the skin. The consistency is medium-to-buildable, so you can even sheer it out with some moisturizer, and then build your coverage.”
NARS, $29.00, available at NordstromPhoto: Via NARS.
Sir John praises Yves Saint Laurent's Le Teint Touche Éclat for its color selection. "This is a great time to be not just a makeup artist, but a woman who happens to be multiethnic or multicultural," he says.
For those (like me) who are wondering how to find your perfect match, he shares this application trick: "If you put your foundation near your jawline and it matches your neck and your décolletage area, then you’re in a good place."
Photo: Via Yves Saint Laurent.
Fleming says that since those with darker skin tend to be on the oilier side, a lightweight foundation can be a good option. "Skin type is definitely a factor to consider when perfecting the pretty," she says. One of her faves: CoverGirl's Queen Collection All Day Flawless. "The color payoff is rich, giving great coverage with a lightweight feel. It is a one-stop shop, combining foundation, concealer, and powder in one easy step."
COVERGIRL, $11.29, available at COVERGIRLPhoto: Via CoverGirl.
If you're willing to splurge a bit more for the perfect coverage, Sir John says Tom Ford has amazing shades for women of color. "Both the stick and the liquid foundation called Traceless are genius," he raves. "He’s quite a modern man, and he uses multicultural and multiethnic women in his advertisements and shows. So, he took that global perspective...to start a cosmetics brand, which I can applaud.”
Tom Ford Beauty, $80.00, available at Tom FordPhoto: Via Tom Ford Beauty.
If you're looking for fuller coverage, opt for Make Up For Ever's Ultra HD foundation. "This product is great...you can be anywhere within a shade or two of this foundation's range, and it just blends in,” Sir John says. "It’s water-based, not oily, and won’t clog the pores or sit in the skin."
He adds that today's options aren't the foundations of our moms and grandmothers. "Even if you’re super oily or dry, the products nowadays are skin-care based and have a philosophy of skin at the core."
Make Up For Ever Ultra HD Invisible Cover Foundation, $43, available at Sephora.
If you're going to go with a drugstore brand, Sir John recommends Black Opal (although he says Iman's line is great as well) to get the best payoff for your dollar.
At the end of the day, it's not just about finding the right foundation — you have to know what to do with it. Sir John suggests creating dimension in the face. "When you put on foundation, it sort of wipes the face clean," he says. "And, your goal as a makeup artist is to bring it back. You’re going to be playing chemist, highlighting and low-lighting — you’re going to lend your artistry to a slight contouring effect." This means focusing on the darker areas: the hollows of the cheeks, around the hairline, and near the eyeball sockets.
Black Opal, $9.50, available at Black OpalPhoto: Via Black Opal.
If you still can't find the exact right shade of foundation (or your skin tone fluctuates slightly by season), these drops are a godsend. Use them to alter the tone of another foundation that isn’t quite right. “You can [also] customize your level of coverage by mixing a few drops into your serum or moisturizer,” makeup artist Tasha Reiko Brown says. “And because you can mix it into a water, oil or silicone-based product, it's wearable for any skin type.”
Cover FX Custom Color Drops, $44, available at Sephora
Reiko Brown’s top choice for a light-coverage foundation that delivers a glowing finish? This hydrating formula, which is perfectly suited for dry or mature skin. She also loves the comprehensive spectrum of shades — including half shades — which help ensure a perfect match. “This is the most complete color range on the market,” she notes. “The color range is from light caramel to the deepest mahogany, and the undertones shift appropriately throughout the range.”
Bobbi Brown Moisture Rich Foundation SPF 15, $50, available at Nordstrom.
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