The designers at Dolce & Gabbana have long tapped into motifs that speak to women's experiences (they’ve had shows inspired by mothers and matriarchs), but they’ve interspersed them between off-color casting and themes that seemed to only privilege a certain kind of woman (that of the slim, cis, white, wealthy variety). But recent moves toward inclusivity that involve creating a line of hijabs and a bag collection that features same-sex family units seem like the brand is deliberately making public gestures to correct its past mistakes. Dolce & Gabbana does not make clothes for the everywoman, but its designers are as keen as Disney to get everywomen dreaming about fantasy lives lived in pretty, glittering clothes. But what it takes to get to Dolce & Gabbana’s castle is just as suspect as the oft-criticized Disney trope.
According to a press release, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana believe that the fall/winter 2016 collection wasn’t explicitly about Cinderellas and Belles, but rather the modern-day, real-life princess: “The new generation of princesses are not only independent, but they possess a keen perspective and point of view. They are individuals first and foremost.” And there were instances when the script was indeed flipped — imagine if Prince Charming was a woman! Or if cat-lady princesses were a thing — but there were also looks that reinforced infantilizing messages. “Dreaming of my Prince,” read one frock. Another woman wore a dress covered head to toe in teddy bears (we’re not sure what kingdom she belongs to, exactly). “Who Is the Most Beautiful?” read a mirror that was embroidered on a dress. The set, too, was flanked by a Sleeping Beauty’s bed (borrowed from Milan’s famous La Scala opera house) and a 10-foot-tall picture book that told the brand’s story: “The princess was walking in the woods, accompanied by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana when they met a handsome prince…” Apparently, even the modern woman needs three men to tell her story.
Roses, teddy bears, kittens, shattered glass, magical nutcrackers, Cinderella gowns (and matching glass slippers), mice who sew, evil stepmothers, and poison apples…it was a load of fun to ID all the Disney references throughout, but if this show was at all a representation of the modern-day princess, it seems that despite all our dreaming and fantasizing, we haven’t made much progress at all.
"We can do it, we can do it/We can help-a Cinderelly!/We can make the dress so pretty/There's nothing to it, really!"
How to look like the (aristo)cats' meow. (And just in time for Paris Fashion Week, no less).
Here's hoping there's no poisonous apple in this bunch.
"Painting the roses red, we're painting the roses red..."
Holding up the Enchanted Mirror, the Beast proclaimed, "Show me the girl dress."
Because girls can wear Prince Charming's pants, too.
We call this wearing your heart on your chest.
Hum along to "I Wonder" while wearing this gem.
Anastasia and Drizella make better decoration than they do step-sisters.
"Mirror, mirror, on the wall, who's the fairest dressed of them all?"
A literal way for Snow White to always have the Seven Dwarfs by her side.
If you were wondering what Cinderella would look like in 2016, she'd likely forgo her ball gown for a fluffy, more form-fitting dress and switch up the choker with a bowed and jeweled piece.
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