Anyone who loves Halloween knows that deciding who you'll dress as is the easy part, but executing the look you picture in your head is another story. Take Marilyn Monroe, for example. It seems easy, but even if you have an exact replica of her iconic white dress, there are still so many subtle details that go into making the look believable. You'll need red lipstick and matching nail polish — plus a flick of liquid liner — but the piéce de résistance is the perfectly-coiffed platinum hairdo.
The female icons of the '50s were glamorous, which means the decade makes for a great jumping-off point if you want a costume with a flashy, elegant feeling. Ahead, we've rounded up some of the greats, like Audrey Hepburn and Josephine Baker, to serve as inspiration for a major Halloween beauty moment. Whether you decide to use old-school hot rollers, a wig, or any other tool or product, you'll find the spark to get you started, ahead.
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October 10th is World Mental Health Day, a day when people around the world work to raise awareness and support for mental health issues. While it’s helpful for everyone to share their experiences, celebrities have a unique platform, should they choose to use it. According to the National Alliance on Mental Illness (NAMI), one of the most effective ways to fight mental health stigma is to hear one person’s lived experience — and while this can certainly come from friends and family members, celebrities can instantly reach millions of people when they step forward.
Over the past several years, more and more celebrities have spoken out about their experiences with mental health, from opening up about their diagnoses to sharing how they practice self-care. Here are eight of them.
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We keep our makeup collections stocked with waterproof formulas year-round — nobody wants to deal with melting mascara or smudged eyeliner while hitting the Halloween-themed pub crawl or watching a tear-jerking holiday movie marathon after Thanksgiving dinner. But as reliable as waterproof formulas can be, there is the harsh reality of getting them off.
Tugging at your mascara with makeup wipe after makeup wipe is a wasteful shortcut to irritated skin, and washing your face at night only to wake up with raccoon eyes is just frustrating. You need a cleanser that will really get the job done — and luckily, there are products that work to wash away every bit of long-wear and even waterproof makeup.
From oil-based cleansers to eco-friendly towels, we rounded up the best waterproof makeup removers, ahead — so that you can live your best life in budge-proof makeup without ever having to rub your face off like you're scratching a lottery ticket.
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However, while we’ve been out combing Amazon for the next big thing, Orolay quietly became a legit brand — complete with high-end product photography, a vague trefoil logo (nothing to see here, Adidas!), and a host of new puffy-coat styles in the vein of the techy original. What was once an anonymous entity in a sea of outerwear options has evolved into a full-fledged design operation in the business of making covetable and competitively-priced outerwear. A recent scan of their dedicated Amazon shop yielded a ton of on-point winter coats. So if you’re ready to do some browsing in consideration of this upcoming winter’s new puffer, peep Orolay’s newest designs — and prepare to start another viral fashion phenomenon.
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We know what you're thinking: For being October, it's still pretty darn warm, so it makes perfect sense to put off your fall hair appointment. It's okay to wait on locking down your fresh cut (although the raddest new color trends have already arrived), because most of the au courant hairstyles for fall 2019 are easily achievable for those who plan to milk a grow out through early November.
Actually, according to top celebrity hair pros, the looks that are going to dominate the new season are mostly fresh takes on summer's favorite styles, like the messy updo and low bun, just accessorized with a pre-fall spin. Ahead, check out all the looks that you can wear now, straight through whenever you draw line at true fall, and still be totally on-trend.
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My love-hate relationship with apparel runs deep. On the one hand, I love fashion (I am a fashion writer, after all). But on the other hand, there are still many mornings when I wake up, stare blindly at my closet, and somehow arrive at the same, tired conclusion: I have nothing to wear. Or, perhaps even worse: My wardrobe doesn’t excite me. And while some may use these moments as an opportunity to peruse their favorite online retailers, budget- and/or sustainably minded shoppers (like yours truly) may feel like their options for a spruced-up wardrobe are limited.
Thankfully, Haverdash offers up the perfect opportunity to bring some much-needed spark and variety to your closet. If you've been thinking about trying a clothing rental service but haven't pulled the trigger yet because of the price or selection, consider this: Haverdash is just $59 a month, and lets you rent three styles of everyday clothing, rather than just looks for special occasions. Wear your items once or multiple times, then return them for new options (rotations are unlimited during the month).
You’re able to select pieces that easily weave a dash of trend, bold color, or print into your daily wardrobe — whether you need a jacket to tie together your summer-to-fall transitional outfits or a work-appropriate dress that can take you from the office to happy hour.
Ahead, we’re rounding up our fall essentials from Haverdash — all of which will help you get the most mileage out of your wardrobe.
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It used to take a Superbowl-sized wardrobe malfunction to get the inside scoop on which stars were hiding nipple piercings under their red-carpet gowns. But according to a top celebrity piercer, there are far more stars with pierced nipples than we could possibly imagine. “If they’re done properly, they will be very minimal and most people won’t even notice,” Brian Keith Thompson told Refinery29 (while gamely answering just about every question a person could have on the subject).
But nipple piercings have been freed, so to speak. In the past few years, celebs haven’t exactly hid the most private of their piercings. Thanks to paper-thin shirts, pap strolls, Instagram, and a new wave of body confidence, stars like Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid are exposing the edgiest of accessories with the frequency of an outfit change — no scandal required.
Ahead, see which stars are exposing their piercings with pride. Prepare yourself: These looks are so cool, they may just spark barbell dreams of your own.
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We have a machinist from New Jersey to thank for the invention of modern-day glitter. In 1934, Henry Ruschmann devised a way to crush up plastic to produce large quantities of the shiny stuff. He created a manufacturing company — Meadowbrook Glitter — to double down on his brainchild and now, decades later, that crushed up shiny stuff is everywhere in makeup aisles, from lipglosses to eyeliners, and most definitely eyeshadows.
But there is one big downside of wearing glittery eyeshadow: That shit gets everywhere. Thankfully, some brands have come to realize that we definitely don't want to be wiping glitter out of our hair, bathroom tiles, and clothes every day, and have opted for improved technology and things like eyeshadow creams and gels.
We can't thank them enough. Ahead, check out our favorite foolproof glitter shadows that won't be haunting you and all of your belongings days after wearing it.
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I am THE original HBIC. I do appearances all over the country, and they want to hear me call myself the HBIC, so I’m still going to rock with that. I made that one up, but I like to say I’m the original because there’s a lot of other women that want to call themselves the HBIC and I’m totally fine with that. Honestly, I don’t hem and haw over the names. If people want to call me Tiffany, that’s perfect. If people want to call me New York, that’s just as fine because there’s a nostalgia and there’s an embrace that I will always have for that name. Truth be told that name helped me get to where I am today.
I think it’s so funny that a lot of people wonder where I’ve been [since the last season of New York Goes To Hollywood] but I’ve never stopped working. I’m always doing gigs or hosting or doing appearances or working loosely on other projects.
When I began reality, I feel like I bought a certain type of energy that now we tend to contrive when we think about television. I think television used to be very stuffy, very, “I have to look perfect, be perfect and have the perfect answer.” I think when I stepped on the scene, I released a lot of that type of tension. It was like, You know what? Forget that. This is a reality show for me. It’s okay to be yourself. Cry if you feel it! If you don’t have the perfect answer, it’s okay to say “I don’t know.” So it was taking a lot of the stuffiness out of what we used to [think] television was. That’s how I approached reality and it worked for me. It later worked for a lot of other people too.
But it’s funny because I don’t really pursue and push really hard for the reality stuff. I’m not going to lie, I turn down reality shows if I feel like it’s redundant, something I’ve done before, or something that just doesn’t fit my image right now. But to be clear: I never really, really, really went away.
I’m truly a homebody. I still like to visit my family. I love to cook. I’ve always had this thing with myself where I’m like, “Tiff, you can’t remove the things that you loved before you were on television.” A lot of people don’t know this, [but] when I first got recognized, I suffered anxiety from people coming up to me because I wasn’t ready for that much fame all at once. For me, it was very important to still maintain a normal lifestyle. I’m always going to have that integrated into my life no matter what I do or no matter how big I get.
And while all of that is very true, it feels amazing to come back with season 2 for it to be at VH1. I feel like season 2 felt so natural in comparison to season 1 when I was learning the ropes. And that now I have arrived, I really know how to host and conduct an interview correctly.
My favorite part of the Brunch With Tiffany is when I would greet the guest and there was that initial, “I don’t know what to expect from you.” But then there’s this organic thing that occurs when they give me their trust and I give them my undivided attention. You see this magic start to happen in the interview where we almost feel like we’ve known each other for the longest [time]. I noticed that with every person that has come on the show, and it was just like this thing where I started to fall in love. I’m like, “Oh my goodness, I’m hooked.”
I love that the youth knows who I am because of social media. I can’t believe it when I see them use gifs of me on Flavor of Love. It’s so surreal because that show was over 11 years ago. It keeps me current and the youth respect me. I’m constantly like “Wow, they want to see more of me,” and it’s an amazing feeling.
Out of them all, “Bye Pumpkin” is my favorite New York meme. I remembered that moment and that was the hardest thing I’ve ever lived through in my life. I can remember it like it was yesterday when I see that particular meme. That one is etched into my mind forever. I could be 80 years old, and I’ll still remember that moment for the rest of my life.
Looking ahead for New York in 2020, I have a few reality programs coming out that I’ll be featured in. I get into motivational speaking as well, so you’ll see me do more of that in 2020, for sure. But what I also ultimately love to do is “Brunch with Tiffany.” It’s definitely the right place for my energy right now. I love to host and I also love to conduct interviews because I’m not really big into the doctored thing.
Every single guest that came on my platform to have brunch with me, there was a mutual respect because I didn’t make anything up. They were there to tell their side of the story, and I think, personally, that’s how all interviews should be conducted. I like to get the information straight from the horse’s mouth.
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This statistic is not intended to hurl you into an existential crisis (though hurl you it might), but rather to alert you to the fact that we interact with screens way more than we think — so we should be aware of how they impact our health and what we can do to practice screen time in the safest way. Like self-care, but make it techie.
Enter: dark mode, an interface that uses a dark color scheme instead of light and can help reduce eye fatigue, glare, and blue light. These days, you’d be hard-pressed to find an app or device that doesn’t offer it.
“With people spending most of their waking hours on screens, constant exposure to blue light is taking a toll on eyes and health,” says Justin Barrett, CEO Healthe, a company that creates eye safe technology. “The high-energy blue light emitted by our screens has been linked to several visual symptoms categorized by the eye care community as digital eye strain or computer vision syndrome, as well as disruption of circadian rhythm (our body clock). Sleep disruption is also a serious concern, especially among children and adolescents, who are more likely to be sensitive to its consequences like persistent fatigue, poor appetite, and sleep disorders. We should be cautious about the potential long-term effects and accumulated exposure to LED-lit displays.”
Barrett says using a blue light filter like ZAGG VisionGuard for phones and tablets or wearing glasses with a blue light filter covering a range up to 455nm can protect against the effects of blue light. But another easy way to limit blue light exposure is to enable on dark mode on your devices. Ahead, here’s how to do it. (Also, it might save battery life!)
iPhone, iPad & Mac
For Mac, you can only opt into dark mode if you have macOS Mojave. Within System Preferences, go to General and then change Appearance to dark.
For iPhone and iPad (if you have iOS 13), go to Settings > Display & Brightness > Dark.
Google Pixel
Go to Quick Settings and activate Dark theme. You can also go to Settings > Battery and switch on Battery Saver, which conserves your battery by switching to dark mode for apps like YouTube and News.
And last week, Google rolled out dark mode for Google Calendar on Android, which you can turn on by going to Settings > General > Theme.
Instagram
If you’ve enabled dark mode on your iPhone (which you can do if you’ve updated to iOS 13) or on Android (if you have Android 10), you’ll automatically have dark mode on Instagram. It’s that easy!
Twitter
On Twitter, it’s as easy as clicking on your profile logo at the top of your screen and switching on Dark Mode, which is available on mobile and desktop. Users can now choose between three different themes: Light, Dim, and Lights Out. You can also opt to use Automatic Dark Mode on iOS, which allows you to automatically switch to Dim or Lights Out mode each night and then switch back every morning.
Facebook Messenger
Simply click on your profile icon, turn on Dark Mode, and the whole display turns black. While Facebook’s general website and app don’t have dark theme options, you can download a Chrome extension for this.
YouTube
On both mobile and desktop, you can click on your profile icon and scroll down until you see Dark theme. Switch it on, and voila! Perfect for watching videos in the dark.
There are also apps like f.lux , which adapts your computer’s display to the time of day — that means no more getting blinded by the bright light of your computer at midnight.
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Bella Hadid is one of the most famous models in the world right now, but there's still a lot that fans don't know about the 23-year-old. Sure, we've seen inside her fridge and follow her hair changes, but even something as public as her tattoos have flown under the radar.
Yes, Hadid has tattoos, albeit not many of them. Just like her best friend Kendall Jenner, Hadid tends to keep her ink really small — practically undetectable — and she only has three tats so far. Still, while Hadid doesn't have a massive collection (nothing near as big as Hailey Bieber's 19 and Dakota Johnson's 10), her designs are totally worth tracking down, which is exactly what we did.
Refinery29 is partnering with Girls Who Code for the #MarchForSisterhood on International Day of the Girl. This is the first-ever all-digital global march. Come back each day this week to learn about why different young women are participating, and join us as we #MarchForSisterhood on any of your social media channels this Friday, October 11, 2019.
I’ve never had a typical college day. As an Executive Director and college student, my days involve talking to reporters, running to the student union for assignments, calling my coworkers, attending class, and then flying out for business trips. I direct the organization Student Voice, a nonprofit that empowers young people to take ownership of their education. We run five programs that train and equip high school students with the tools they need to make change in their communities. I’ve been involved with Student Voice since I was 16 — I won’t get my Bachelors’s Degree until next year, yet I’ve already had a six-year career.
This all began my junior year of high school after watching the Corridor of Shame, a documentary that highlights inequities in South Carolina Schools. I grew up in Title I schools, but moved to a wealthier neighboring district before my sophomore year began. I quickly noticed how vastly different my school experiences were, despite my new school being just miles away. I became obsessed with understanding the gross inequity that existed in my state. South Carolina isn’t a large state, but the way that education policy is written and schools are operated causes education experiences to vary wildly across zip codes. Some schools have Apple TVs in every classroom and provide students with opportunities to travel across the country each year. Other schools lack the most basic resources a school needs to stay open — teachers,textbooks,desks, and everything in between.
I started connecting with students from across South Carolina. Together we fought for recognition of student voices around the big funding questions playing out at the state legislature. In one campaign, students in Lexington District 4, a rural and underfunded district of the state, fought to secure $25 million in a bond referendum that would fund their school. But I wasn’t done yet; in a surprising plot twist in my very type-A existence, I decided to take a gap year.
During my year “off”, I traveled to 20 states, meeting over 3,000 students, and visiting 32 schools to talk with young people about their experiences in school. I went to conferences, I read and met with teachers and decision-makers to learn as much as I could. I witnessed how many schools were lacking the financial resources to provide students with the resources they deserve. Students continually cited their desire to have access to modern technology.
An issue I heard about often, and still hear about, is the lack of opportunities in science, technology, and math for young women. Young women are interested in STEM fields but are told, both directly and indirectly, that these fields are not meant for them, but instead for their male classmates. We often discuss how to close the gender pay gap and the gap in the amount of women in STEM fields, but fail to discuss how young girls’ experiences in schools set the foundation for what they perceive their potential futures in STEM to be.
I’m marching for sisterhood for all of the incredible girls I’ve met throughout my career thus far, and all those I will meet. Everyone deserves access to technology that will open the world to them. As long as inequity persists and the gender gap in tech remains, we’ll march.
Merrit Jones is a third-year student at the University of North Carolina – Chapel Hill and executive director of Student Voice, a student-run nonprofit dedicated to strengthening the student movement by empowering high schoolers to take action on the issues that most affect their education.
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The moment when summer transitions to fall is notoriously difficult to dress for, but we like to think of it as an opportunity — when else can you wear crisp blouses and printed co-ords without a heavy coat? This special time calls for special pieces, and luckily for us, Macy's has a new collab that fits the bill: Becca Tilley x Bar III, courtesy of style influencer Becca Tilley.
Browse six of our favorite pieces ahead, as seen on Shopping Wednesdays, our weekly Instagram Stories series. Fall won’t stick around forever, but rest assured — these staples will carry on seamlessly into the colder months.
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Sure, we can't exactly promote spending $11,000 on a 3D-printed head like Jared Leto did for the Met Gala, but we can suggest some easier-to-manage costume ideas that still spell Fashion with a capital F.
Ahead, check out 6 fashun-forward Halloween costumes that are sure to get you that best-dressed award at every soiree come October 31st.
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Amazon is essentially an IRL version of Ariel's treasure trove, famously detailed in her The Little Mermaid number, "Part Of Your World." Only instead of a cavernous hole 1000 leagues under the sea, all that "neat" stuff is housed on digital shelves across the web. And, instead of useless, "whozits," "whatzits," and, "thingamabobs," Amazon's best booty is a collection of secret weapon stuff that we never knew we needed and now we that we have it, simply can't live without — a collection we've come to call, the hidden gems.
Since this particular online product ocean runs deep, we decided to poll an in-the-know pool of online-shopping mermaids across the country for their absolute favorite buys. From fashion to tech, beauty, travel, home decor, and health and wellness, the hidden gems' list ahead covers products so unique that you may be entirely surprised to find they were snagged off Amazon. Scroll on to shop our secret treasure trove of Amazon's hidden gems and become a part of a world filled with baby products that are actual magic, face oils, lint rollers the size of mops, trendy boots to ruffle dresses for fall, plus totes galore. And spread the good goods for our next round of Amazon hidden gems — we'd love to know what treasures you've tried, tested, and approved.
At Refinery29, we’re here to help you navigate this overwhelming world of stuff. All of our market picks are independently selected and curated by the editorial team. All product details reflect the price and availability at the time of publication. If you buy something we link to on our site, Refinery29 may earn commission.
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The best part about getting dressed this time of year is that you can wear just about anything in your closet. You're no longer limited to the most lightweight floral maxi dress you own because you'll sweat through anything else (paired with sneakers, because you'll slide right out of sandals). The cooler temps mean you can throw on the vintage jeans you haven't worn since May, paired with any blouse and your favorite peep-toe mules or slides. The only thing that might need an update is your toenail polish.
For most of us, that means taking a cotton ball and polish remover to our chipping polish — be it the white or baby blue you loved in July — and popping on a more autumnal shade. If you're not sure what that should be, the seasoned nail pros break down the best pedicure shades for fall 2019, ahead.
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As an industry, beauty is leaning further and further into the “personalized.” That said, Black women have been historically underserved in this realm, particularly when it comes to hair and skin care. That’s precisely why Birchbox and Unbothered, R29’s editorial destination for Black millennial women, teamed up to go directly to the source and find out what Black consumers actually need. The result: two specially curated beauty kits.
R29’s insights team first collected data from focus groups and surveys of more than 1,500 Black women. Then, Birchbox and the Unbothered team used these insights to guide the direction of the “It’s Your Crown” Hair Kit and “Stay Radiant” Skin Kit (both $38) to give consumers exactly what they said they’re looking for: an efficient way of discovering top-shelf hair and skin products — while supporting businesses developed by Black beauty and grooming professionals. Across both kits, 50% of products are from are from Black-founded or Black-owned brands, while the Black, queer illustrator-designer Loveis Wise was commissioned to create the product cards included in each box.
This partnership marks Birchbox’s ongoing effort to build a more inclusive assortment by investing in Black-owned brands; Birchbox is in discussion with these brands, and in particular the ones developed by Black beauty and grooming professionals, on partnership opportunities in 2020.
So at every stage, this collaboration can truly be called “consumer-first.” And it’s one that fully — and finally — meets its intended audience’s needs. To find out more about the collab, click here.
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Whether you're blessed with naturally voluminous lashes or not, a set of lengthy or dramatic falsies can add a ton of glamour to any makeup look in a matter of seconds. But despite the growing number of people adding false lashes to their beauty routines, the common misconception surrounding them is that they're difficult to apply or look too obvious.
There are, however, lots of different types of false lashes that can be tailored to exactly what you're looking for, whether it's something super-natural or the total opposite. It's all about picking the right pair and knowing how to apply them. Wondering where to start? We've rounded up the best false lashes and a few tips on how to wear them, ahead.
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Fall is one of those extreme-festive seasons that overwhelms the senses (sights, tastes, and smells all included). And because smell is the strongest of all the senses, it's tough to live our best autumn lives engulfed in a cloud of over-the-top fragrances. To avoid that fate this year, we hunted down the top-rated candles filled with only the softest and coziest fall scents — NOT the ones that smell like a PSL fever dream.
The glowing glass votives ahead hold only reviewer nose-approved autumn aromas, from falling leaves to wood fires and sophisticated (subtle!) pumpkin spices. Don't live in fear of the season's infamous scent explosions — instead, celebrate all the evocative sweater-wearing, red wine-sipping, and apple-picking notes it has to offer.
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Welcome toTravel Diaries, a Refinery29 series where we tag along as real women embark on trips around the world and track theirtravel expenses down to the last cent. Here, we offer a detailed, intimate account of when, where, and how our peers spend their vacation days and disposable income: all the meals, adventures, indulgences, setbacks, and surprises.
This week’s travel diary: A 33-year-old product designer tours Ireland with her boyfriend and his sister on a road trip that starts and ends in Dublin.
For questions, feedback, or if you’re interested in tracking your travel expenses during an upcoming trip email us at traveldiary@refinery29.com.
Age: 33 Occupation: Product Designer Salary: $87,500 Travel Companions: Boyfriend, T., and his sister, K. Annual Number Of Vacation Days: 15
Hometown: Los Angeles, CA Trip Location: Ireland (part of a bigger trip that also includes Italy and France) Trip Length): 2 weeks Travel Companion Number of Vacation Days: 0 or 365, however you look at it — he was laid off in January
Transportation Costs: We booked LAX to Dublin for $812.28 (per person, me and my boyfriend T. traveled together on the flight) and were brought to the airport by our friend, J. No charge! We had a layover in Paris for a few hours before getting to Dublin. We didn’t check luggage; carry-ons, always!
In Dublin, we rented a car because we planned on visiting a new city in Ireland every night for five nights. (Well, four cities, because we did Dublin twice.) It was $117 per person (split three ways) before we left for the trip.
From Dublin to Florence (or next destination, not included in this diary), we booked flights for $228.50 per person and had a layover in Amsterdam.
Total: $1,157.78
Accommodations Costs: Our first hotel in Dublin, the Temple Bar Hotel, was $331.58 total; $110.53 per person. Then in Galway, we stayed at the Forster Court Hotel, $155.99 total; $52 per person. In Cork we stayed at Hotel Isaacs, and T. paid for it with Expedia points. In Kilkenny, we stayed at the Kilford Arms Hotel for $107.39 total; $35.79 per person. Then when we returned to Dublin, we stayed at the Abbey Hotel, $153.61 total; $51.20 per person.
Total: $249.52
Miscellaneous pre-vacation spending: Gel manicure: $50 Pedicure: $27 New dresses and shirt: $141 Makeup wipes and travel makeup remover: $8 Roll-up water bottles to refill: $14 “Litter box” and box cutter (I built a makeshift litter box to make it easier on my friend who is taking the cat; it’s a Rubbermaid tote with a hole cut in the top. Almost cut my hand off doing it but it’s so much cleaner for her): $10 Snacks to leave at my cat sitter’s as a treat for her, the sitter: $10 Advil, stomach relief stuff (traveling blows up my stomach): $14 International data: $60 (paid by my nervous father) for 1GB of data and unlimited text messages
Total: $274
Miscellaneous post-vacation spending Cat sitter (it’s my friend who takes her into her own house). It’s a $15 a day but I added a little extra to make it an even number: $250
Car rental extras: fuel, GPS, insurance (charged once we were home in LA): $115 each person.
Total: $365
Day One
6:00 a.m. – It’s my first day off in forever! I’m beyond pumped to have the next two weeks off with no work obligations. I work from Michigan once a month for a week to help my dad, who was recently diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease, so I get “time off” from LA, where I live, but I have to work the whole time so it’s not really a vacation. I get up early, stuff some food in my mouth so I don’t get coffee anxiety, make a Nespresso, and go for a walk with my boyfriend, T. It’s one of our favorite morning rituals. We talk excitedly about the day and our impending flight that night. We are going to road trip around Ireland with his sister K. for five days before touring other parts of Europe to meet T.’s family and do more traveling.
9:00 a.m. – I run around finishing packing. T. had already packed two weeks ago along with his entire family (they’re planners) and I’m more of a relaxed vacationer and packer. I pack my favorite backpack for traveling as full as it can be. I know I won’t wear half of the shit in the bag, but of course, I can’t bring myself to take anything out.
11:00 a.m. – T goes with his friend to see Avenger’s End Game again as I pack up the cat to bring her to my friend’s place for the next two weeks. She loves my kitty and I can’t express how thankful I am that she cares for the cat, in her own home, when I’m away for long trips. Of course, I pay her but the peace of mind is worth any amount of money. My cat gets lonely and crazy when she’s alone too long so this helps.
12:00 p.m. – Sob, I stop procrastinating and bring the cat to my friend’s. I already miss her. I bring along some of my friend’s favorite treats as well and leave them on the counter as a bonus thank you gift. The cat immediately hides under the bed (my friend is at work) and I try to find her for one last pet, but it’s no use. I yell to her that I love her, because I’m insane, and lock her in the apartment. I head home to finish packing.
3:00 p.m. – I unplug everything in the apartment and hide my laptops because I’m that person. K. gets home with our airport ride, our friend J. We pack up the car and fight LA traffic to get to LAX. Our flight isn’t until 9:00 p.m. but we have lounge access and we don’t want J. to have to be in traffic at rush hour on a Friday. We trade airport rides with him for free because all three of us travel a lot. It’s nice!
5:00 p.m. – We’re through TSA (Pre-check! Do it!) and already lounging. T. has a Chase Sapphire Reserve and it includes a Priority Pass that lets him bring a guest to anything the Priority Pass includes, which in this case, is a lounge. We grab drinks and snacks and sit outside on the “balcony” overlooking the international terminal. T.’s brother and his fiancée get to the airport and lounge with us. We are all stoked. It doesn’t feel real! (We’ll meet up with them in Florence after our Ireland trip; they’re going to other cities first.)
6:30 p.m. – T.’s brother and his fiancée have an 8:00 p.m. flight so they want to do real dinner at P.F. Chang’s (also included for free with Priority Pass for up to $30 a person). We all order: I obviously get chicken lettuce wraps and listen to some drama with TSA because an employee of the restaurant apparently badged into the terminal but has not badged out yet though his shift is over. We strain to hear everything going on as the police have shown up, but in the end, they discover the employee is at home and that his badge just must not have worked on the way out. We finish our meal and get our fortune cookies. Mine is “You will soon discover that love is everything.” Oh, really? We all pay for the tip ($20, not included in Priority Pass) and I throw in the last of the cash I have in my purse. Next stop: Europe and euros! $7
9:00 p.m. – We board and settle into our seats. We’re in the last row, which is perfect because it’s two seats instead of three and it reclines really far for a coach seat. I take half a Xanax because I hate flying (but love traveling) and am prescribed it solely for flights. Next stop: layover in Paris! Everything is included in our flight so we don’t spend any money.
Daily Total: $7
Day Two
4:50 p.m. – Landed in Paris! Thank god I took that Xanax because we had maybe one of the most turbulent flights I’ve ever been on. I don’t get motion sickness and even I started to feel sick. We slept a good amount on the flight, however, and I got to rewatch one of my favorite movies, Bridget Jones’s Diary.
6:00 p.m. – We finally made it through customs and re-scanned our bags, which took forever because we had to walk a long way, then an American woman was demanding to speak to a “manager” at security because they wouldn’t let her into our terminal to shop because she didn’t have a ticket for those gates. She was also my age, which is disheartening. Just don’t be a dick, everyone. Our next flight to Dublin isn’t until 9:00 p.m., so we go in search of drinks.
6:30 p.m. – We get Champagne to celebrate arriving in Europe ($20.41 for my glass) and I stop by Ladurée for macarons ($9.45). We have two Ladurées in LA but I heard they’re not as good as in France. Maybe it’s the placebo effect, but they do taste better! We aren’t in the right terminal for the lounge included with T.’s Priority Pass, which is a bummer, but we find comfy seats and park there, reading and eating macarons until we need to board our flight. $29.86
8:00 p.m. – I decide I’m hungry and in need of caffeine, so I stop at Pret A Manger for two cappuccinos, beet chips, and a chickpea, hummus, and feta cup. I record all my purchases in Tripcoin, which is awesome and does conversions (so does my credit card – I have a Chase Sapphire Preferred and I set it up to send me a text message every time an international charge posts). T. doesn’t have a job right now, so I plan to cover as much as I can for him too in terms of small items like cappuccinos, but we split most of all the bigger purchases and use Splitwise to keep track. $16.49
9:00 p.m. – T.’s sister, K., is at the bar in Dublin on WiFi and is impatiently texting us to hurry up and get there because she’s four drinks deep and ready to party. Our flight is slightly delayed, but we finally take off for the short trip to Ireland.
10:15 p.m. – We made it! Good Lord, I have to pee. We have to get to the car rental counter by 11:00 p.m. so we haul ass to get there, but I duck into a bathroom, yelling at T. to go ahead. Afterward, I try to find him in the place I assume he’s at – the off-site car rental – so I start to get on a shuttle. Luckily, the car shuttle driver is very nice and says the counters are still open inside so I should check there first. That would’ve sucked. He walks me in and I find T. finishing up getting our car. I go to the bank ATM while he finishes and I take out a few hundred euros. My credit union covers all ATM fees up to $15 and has great conversion rates, so I’m the designated cash person. I pay a $4 fee, to be reimbursed at the end of the month. We have to add insurance and a GPS to the car, so I will owe more for the car later. The Enterprise employee tells us excitedly that he got us a Skoda, and we don’t know what that is, but we thank him and go find our car.
11:00 p.m. – The Skoda is just a nice, roomy four-door sedan which we have no feelings about either way. T. is the first who is going to attempt to drive on the left side of the road on the right side of the car, and I will admit, my anxiety is pissing him off. I’m a backseat driver who is technically in the driver’s seat (if we were in America) and it’s all a little nerve-wracking. We pay one toll on the way into Dublin. We make it to our hotel, but can’t find the parking lot and there’s people everywhere. We are staying on Temple Street, which was possibly a mistake. I run inside our hotel to grab K. and ask where we should park. We finally find the lot, park, and get to our room. Quick change, and out the door to get drinks and explore the area! $3.40
12:00 a.m. – This street is hopping. We find a bar called Oliver St. John playing live music and I grab the first round of drinks. ($24.38) I got a Guinness. I had to! It’s so packed in the bar, and there are people from so many different countries there. (We know this because the singer calls out approximately 20 countries and people scream back at the mention of every one.) K. and I get very excited when they play the Scottish song 500 Miles by The Proclaimers. We dance, K. gets hit on by nearly every dude there, and T. buys us another round of drinks. K. doesn’t want anymore as she had a head start, but as her big brother, T. insists we do a shot. It is gross. We move onto another bar. $24.38
1:00 a.m. – Next bar playing live music. We meet guys from NYC (who we initially did not want to talk to and told we were from Canada) but they ended up being very nice and one is very interested in K. It turns out he and I technically worked for the same company for a while and discuss mergers. Super exciting Ireland bar talk. The guys buy us all drinks, T. buys them all drinks, K. buys us drinks, we dance more and before we know it, the bar is closing.
2:30 a.m. – T. exchanges numbers with the guys because they’re road-tripping also. We know we won’t see them again. K. and I bolt to the hotel room because we’re starving. There’s no food open late here! Or really, we are just too drunk and lazy to find it. We hit the lobby to buy Pringles and beer and I get a Smirnoff Ice to ice T. because drunk, and I apparently think that joke is still funny 10 years later. We eat the Pringles but 100% don’t need the beer, so it sits unfinished as we get ready for bed and crash. I pay for the stuff because it was definitely all my idea. $23.81
Daily total: $97.94
Day Three
9:00 a.m. – We wake up after a fitful night of sleep. Time changes and drinks. We all shower, get ready, and repack. We debate exploring some of Dublin, but we’ll be back here in a few days so we instead decide to check out to get breakfast and make our way to Galway. We bring our stuff to the car (minus T.’s and K.’s backpacks, which both have their laptops in them) and then wander to find food.
11:00 a.m. – We eat breakfast and it’s pretty amazing. I’m happy to have something besides Pringles and airport food. I get a smoked salmon platter and coffee for both me and T. He also gets a traditional Irish breakfast (beans, blood sausage, the works!) and K. gets fish and chips. Breakfast of champions. $23.75
12:00 p.m. – We pay for parking ($6.80 per person – we’re splitting everything evenly, for the most part, and have a Splitwise group for the three of us). We set the GPS to Galway and T. drives us. K. and I both love My Favorite Murder so we relisten to the Dublin live episode on the way, for theming. We go through a few tolls that I pay for ($4.53) and watch the scenery go by. K. is out and sleeping in the backseat. T., who gets really tired while driving, asks me to drive after a little while. Here we go. It is pretty terrifying at first, but I think it makes me an even better driver having to pay 10,000 percent attention. The worst part? Switching lanes and making sure you’re over far enough. It’s crazy how much driving we do by feel and what we are used to. Both T. and K. are passed out so I drive alone for 1.5 hours, switching to Janelle Monae’s “Dirty Computer” album to keep me entertained. We arrive in Galway! $11.33
2:00 p.m. – A nice woman gives us her parking pass so we don’t need to pay for parking in our lot. We walk to the hotel and check-in. There was a mixup with the reservation so they have to charge us extra for the room. Make sure you note the correct number of people staying in the room! We get up to our room and it seems that a fuse is out, because no lights turn on. I call the front desk, who amaze me when they tell me you put your key in the box by the door to activate the lights! Who knew. Not me. I swear I’ve traveled before, everyone. $13.60
3:00 p.m. – We wander around Galway. I love this city. It’s a cute seaside town. We stop for a Smithwick’s beer. K. passes on the beer, so I just get one for me and T. and a Diet Coke for myself. ($13.28) We continue wandering post-beer and stop in the Galway Cathedral. I put $5.67 in as a donation for all of us to visit the cathedral, and I light a candle for $1.14. I always pay to light a candle in every church I go in – I’m not Catholic, but I really like this. I usually light a candle for my mom, who passed away two years ago from complications of early-onset dementia. The cathedral is beautiful and on our way out, we pay to use the restroom ($1.14). $21.23
5:00 p.m. – We continue wandering by the water and shop a little. I want a wool sweater but it’s $69.90 and it’s a little steep for me. I get a wool hat instead for winter, because LA winters are no joke, lol ($22.40). T. buys a Celtic cross for his mom’s birthday in a week. T. is also set on sending “drunk postcards” so I get some with stamps. ($13.60). We decide we’re hungry and pop in an old bar called 1520 Bar. It’s so cute and I get an amazing chowder ($9.01). We continue wandering and I buy a cappuccino for me and a latte for T. ($6.80). We decide to go back to the hotel to rest for a bit. $51.81
8:00 p.m. – We head back out and go to An Pucan, a bar nearby. We get drinks and sit outside, though it’s a little chilly. I get a Tullamore dew and spiced orange ginger beer, which is too sweet for me ($7.94). We decide we’re starving so we go in search of food, but everyone has stopped serving food already. We just want some garlic bread! (It’s on the menu everywhere in Ireland, including at Subway.) We try three different bars and nearly give up, but a Mexican Chipotle-style place is still open until 10:00 p.m. I effectively get a Chipotle burrito bowl but it’s way better here ($15.19). We go back to the hotel to eat and go to bed watching the Graham Norton Show. Will Smith is on and damn, Will as the Genie in “Aladdin” is goddamn terrifying. $23.13
Daily Total: $144.85
Day Four
9:00 a.m. – Up, pack, go down in search of food. A restaurant across the street called Jungle Cafe is just opening. I get a flat white and a smoked salmon croissant. ($13.60) It is one of the best flat whites I’ve ever had and the smoked salmon is also amazing. T. got overnight oats that are incredible as well. Highly recommend! We plan out our trip for the day at breakfast. We are heading to Cork, but are hitting the Cliffs of Moher on the way. We also find a cute fishing village to stop at called Doolin and a castle called Dunguaire that’s on the way, too. We head to the hotel to grab our things and go. $13.60
9:30 a.m. – We ask the front desk people on our way out where we could possibly watch the second to last episode of Game of Thrones, since it aired the night before in America. They tell us a bar nearby will air it that night at like 9:00 p.m. We’re leaving for Cork so we are bummed we can’t see it, but we figure we’ll find a way. We walk to the car, stopping to grab gum and water on the way, and T. drives us to our first stop, Dunguaire. $6.80
10:00 a.m. – We stop at the castle and it’s beautiful, but not open. I have to pee and contemplate peeing in the bushes. This is pretty typical as I’m in a constant state of having to pee. Everything’s fine, my bladder just hates me and I love water. We stop at a gas station and K. buys a 70% dark chocolate Kit Kat, which is pretty great. We continue to Doolin.
11:00 a.m. – Doolin is such a cute little town! We go into some shops and T. buys a plaque of his last name. He has a very Irish name (including his first and middle) and he’s excited about the plaque. We head out towards the Cliffs of Moher on beautiful one-lane farm roads and luckily no one ever is coming the other way. I’m not sure where we’d go? Into the weeds, I suppose, and hope for no stone walls.
12:00 p.m. – We arrive at the cliffs and pay for entry, though K. is $1 less with her student discount. (She just graduated from the same grad program I went to! So proud!) The booth attendant is so happy and says: “It’s a beautiful day! All Irish boys are happy on a sunny day.” This seems scientifically unprovable, but cute nonetheless. The cliffs are incredible and we do luckily have a beautiful, clear, sunny day. We walk all the way to the end, which takes about an hour, and T. makes me mad with a picture that he takes with K. where he pretends to be falling off the cliff. I told him that he was going to become a statistic and walked away. They were fine, but I was displeased. I’m not really a risk-taker, if you cannot tell. After that, however, he was much more respectful of my cliff’s edge rules (as in, stay far away from it). Of course, as we get to the end of the cliff, I have to pee and almost pee behind a stone wall with MS13 graffiti on it. Instead, we hoof it back to the entrance where there are co-ed bathrooms that work beautifully. Can’t we do this everywhere? $8.69
2:00 p.m. – We head to the car and make our way to Cork. I’m a little verklempt on the ride because we didn’t see a puffin. I had a wish to see a puffin right by me on the cliffs (impossible) and then I was going to put it on Instagram with the caption, “Not now, Irish Puffin,” but alas, no puffins. We are hungry for lunch so stop at a little restaurant called The Good House. It is not only good, but it is also great! What a lovely place. I get fish and chips and espresso ($18.14). We continue onto Cork, passing a toll road on the way ($2.15). $20.29
4:00 p.m. – Finally in Cork. I am not loving being in the car for this long. Today was probably our longest driving day, however. We check-in and T. has once again only put one person on the room reservation, but there is nothing left. This hotel has a salty front desk clerk and we have a room with only two twin beds. We decide T. gets the floor between the beds or if he’s nice, he can share the twin with me. (That probably won’t last long, I don’t like to snuggle at night – too hot!) We spend the next while searching for where to watch GoT in Cork. We find a place that says it’s in Cork but it’s 30 minutes away. Our car is parked for the night so we’re not doing that. We call our salty friend and he claims there’s nothing. K. and I both work in tech and pride ourselves on understanding search and search behavior, but we cannot find any bars showing this show. We give up then T. tells us he found a place. We call to be sure, as he gloats, and they confirm. Off we go to explore and then watch the show at 9:00 p.m.!
4:30 p.m. – I lead us in the wrong direction with my GPS, per usual because it won’t update and I hand it to T. Luckily we all like walking a lot. We’ve been averaging 15,000 steps a day for the past two days. We wander all around Cork, exploring the town. After a bit, we want a drink so we decide to go scope out the bar where they are airing the show. We get the scoop that we need to be in the theater (attached to the bar) early because it fills up and that we can bring food in. The bartender tells us to order take away from the bar and just bring it over but that we should do it by 7:30 p.m. We get a round of drinks. I have a Murphy’s, which is like a Guinness but…I can’t tell you what. It’s just like a Guinness. $9.07
7:30 p.m. – I order dinner at the bar after another drink for T. and a Diet Coke for me. K. is too anxious for the show to drink. I get a burger because it sounds good for dinner, K. gets a shawarma-y bowl, and T. gets a burger as well. K. hops up and goes to scope out the theater, even though it isn’t opening until 8:00 p.m. and she doesn’t return. Either she’s kidnapped or she grabbed us seats early. Our food arrives and we carry it over, finding her in some prime seating at the front. The theater is already packed. Also, by “theater” I mean it’s a tiny comedy club. We settle in for some big screen GoT and dinner. $25.90
9:oo p.m. – After watching an episode of Blue Bloods while we wait for GoT to air (Literally, Sky has it on before GoT. Nothing is weirder), I order two glasses of red wine for the show. It comes on and everyone is completely silent. We were nervous about watching the show in a group (and the place is packed so tightly I’m scared that if there’s a fire, we’re all dead), but everyone is regulating each other and it’s dead silent. However, there’s a bowling alley upstairs? And the TV show sound is only coming out of the projector. It’s awful. Then, the TV shuts down. The crowd revolts. We couldn’t hear the first 15 minutes then it went down. The poor bartender is the only one there and people are losing their shit. We sip our drinks and debate if we should go. Finally, a man comes out and asks if they restart it and fix the speakers, would we be mad? And everyone says (shouts) “NO. PLEASE.” So after 45 minutes, we restart. It’s perfect and loud and got-damn, Dany. You crazy. $13.60
10:45 p.m. – We need to discuss the episode, so we find a Raven-themed bar around the corner that’s about to close at 11:00 p.m. We tell them we’ll drink fast and they’re fine with it as they close around us. I get a Smithwick’s red ale. We discuss theories and head out the door after downing our drinks. $9.07
12:00 a.m. – We land at our hotel after wandering some more and T. falls asleep in the bed with me. We’ll see how this goes.
Daily Total: $107.02
Day Five
8:00 a.m. – T.’s on the floor. He claims I pushed him out of bed, which is entirely possible, but more likely that he was just done in a tiny bed. We shower and get ready while discussing our next move. We debate walking around more of Cork but decide we want to go for a drive and see more of the countryside. We also want to go to Blarney Castle. I buy the tickets on my phone for the Castle. Also, I woke up sick and pissed at every coworker I’ve ever had who came to work sick, past and present. (A lot of people came to work sick last week – why? We have two weeks sick time plus we can work from home whenever we want. You are just an asshole.) $18.11
9:00 a.m. – We chat with the front desk about where we should get breakfast. She is so sweet and very unlike our salty friend from yesterday. We decide to go two doors down to Tara’s Tea Room, which is so cute and delicious. I really want to get smoked salmon again but feel like I need to take a break. I can easily get burnt out on it, but it’s so good! I get poached eggs and toast, but also sneak a lot of bites of T.’s scone with clotted cream. K. gets smoked salmon. I look at it longingly but resist taking a bite when she offers. I also get a cappuccino with my food ($12.45 total with food). We finish up and go get the car out of the parking, which was much more expensive than we expected. We each pay $9.05. Woof. $21.50
10:00 a.m. – On our way to Kilkenny (I’m driving again!), but first, a stop at Blarney Castle. I don’t think any of us expected it to be so wonderful here. The Castle is a huge attraction there once you get past the gates, of course, but it’s also just a ton of beautiful gardens and greenery. There’s walking pathways, little buildings to explore, cafés, and more. We have beautiful weather and we luckily get to the Castle early, so there are no lines to get into the structures. We go right upstairs at the Castle and kiss the Blarney Stone, which is super unsanitary and scary! You have to hang upside-down while a man holds you. We wait in line and are shocked when we see how it works. There’s a bunch of blankets on the ground and a rubber mat for you to lay on, face-up, with your head tilted down towards the castle wall. There are two workers – two men – one who takes your photo with your phone and one who holds your waist as you lean backward and down to kiss the stone. I always thought the stone was more like a Plymouth Rock situation on the ground but no – it’s built into the castle wall and there’s a hole in the ground to let you “down” to where the stone is built into the wall. Imagine if you lay on your back over an open manhole – that’s basically what you’re doing, except not on your stomach, only on your back so you can stretch your back downwards down the hole to kiss the stone that’s opposite the wall you’re laying on. Almost like a backbend? It’s so hard to explain and very scary since you’re like four stories up! There are metal bars about five feet down but I mean… what if you fall!? I’m short, so I could barely reach the stone and I don’t trust the man to grip my waist tight enough as he lowers me down. T. starts a rumor that I “licked” the stone instead, but it’s untrue! I definitely kissed it. (And wiped my mouth with hand sanitizer afterward. The men “clean” the stone after every few people but, ew. Still worth it.)
We explore the grounds for a while, finding a ton of wild garlic that smells delicious. It really is great here. As we are wandering, we see the line to go kiss the stone is now 2 hours long! Get here early, everyone! We get “peckish” as T. likes to say, so I buy us Shamrock and Onion chips from a café there as well as two cappuccinos ($10.14). (The chips taste like sour cream and onion. Less magical.) T. also makes me buy more postcards for the “drunk postcards” we’re “definitely” doing tonight ($3.24). I haven’t told either of them that I feel like garbage yet, so T.’s going to be sad tonight when I refrain from drunken anything. $13.38
12:00 p.m. – We head over to the big shopping area by Blarney Castle in search of gifts for people. I don’t like buying souvenirs for people because most stuff is junk, but certain friends always buy me things while they’re away and I feel obligated. I’d rather just find a gift if I see something I think someone would like! K. and I are also both in the market for a nice claddagh ring, but we don’t find anything we like. We finish shopping and head to the car to get to Kilkenny. K. pays the parking fee.
2:00 p.m. – We arrive in Kilkenny at the cutest hotel that may or may not be haunted. We don’t see any ghosts but the hotel room is at the end of an extremely long, winding hallway (after endless sets of stairs) with no lights and the building is so old. We decide there’s no way the building feels this creepy without ghosts. We pray for a sighting. Or maybe just I do. We get to our hotel room and the door is slightly open but empty. Or is it?
We drop off our stuff for the ghosts and I finally admit to K. and T. that I feel like crap. We walk across the street to the pharmacy, because my pharmacist sister and doctor brother-in-law said I probably have strep throat and should see if they’ll give me antibiotics. I’m so upset I’m sick. I’ve been looking forward to this vacation and break from work, but I’m struggling every time we stop moving. The pharmacist is super hilarious, but tells me it’ll cost me 50 quid to get a doctor’s appointment plus more for the antibiotics when all I need is this antiseptic throat spray, some Emergen-C, and “a lot of hot whiskey.” I buy the Emergen-C and the spray ($15.11) and we go off in search of hot whiskey for me. $15.11
3:00 p.m. – After wandering around and learning about the city, we book a ghost tour for 8:00 p.m ($18.11, per person). We mostly just want it for the walking and history, and this one has good reviews. We sit on the river at a restaurant for hot whiskey (me) and split some sweet potato fries and fried shrimp ($12.45). The hot whiskey is so good – they push cloves into a lemon wedge for the drink, which is quite literally boiling whiskey and water. Amazing! We decide to wander back to the hotel for a bit to relax. $30.56
5:00 p.m. – Even though we’re going to learn about this place for our ghost tour, we decide to walk to get dinner at a very old pub called Kyteler’s Inn. It is so cool and there’s a black cat on the logo, which I love because I have a black cat! The band inside is playing Galway Girl which is one of my favorite songs, so I am extra pumped. K. and I get giant salads because it’s necessary, and T. gets a lamb stew that is borderline life-changing. We also split garlic bread with cheese because balance. I don’t get a drink, but sip some of K.’s beer flight. $19.92
8:00 p.m. – After wandering the city, we end up at our meeting point for the tour. The tour guide is hilarious, but our group is so boring and all American. I ask the tour guide a lot of questions as he takes us around about history and his life since I can tell he is frustrated with no reactions from anyone. We learn about a witch who was living where Kyteler’s Inn is, among other things. I love witches. I had a Sabrina the Teenage Witch obsession in the ’90s. (The new show is so dark. And I don’t like watching teenagers be indignant because I’m 85.) The tour wraps up by Kilkenny Castle, which is so beautiful (minus the history of torture in the dungeon) and we part ways.
10:00 p.m. – We stop at a bar called Matt the Millers for a hot whiskey for me and a beer for T. ($11.88). This bar has moving paintings à la Harry Potter which is pretty cool. We debate going out more, but since I feel like garbage, we head back to the hotel where there’s a band playing in the attached bar. T. gets K. and I baby beers (half-pints) and we sip them as we listen to music. This guy plays Galway Girl as well. We realize we’re hungry again and nothing is open except a little fast food joint across the street called Marble City. We go and get too many fries, and I get chicken fingers with ranch like an 8-year-old ($9.05). I am sick, so I get a pass. We head back to the hotel to eat in our (definitely) haunted room. Still no ghost sightings, but it’s cold and dark and we’re just convinced. $20.93
12:00 a.m. – I break out the Emergen-C and K. swallows an entire packet dry, preemptively. I am horrified and impressed. We call it a night on the least comfortable beds we’ve had this entire time. A literal spring is poking me in the back.
Daily Total: $139.51
Day Six
11:00 a.m. – The one night we have a terrible bed, but don’t set our alarm, we wake up at 11:00 a.m. K. has been up since 8:00 a.m. and we had planned to walk around more, but now we just need to head to Dublin. T. and I feel really guilty that K. didn’t get to explore more, but I’m happy to have some longer rest. I still feel horrible, but the throat spray helps. Jury’s still out on the hot whiskey cure. We pack up for the umpteenth time and head to our car. I’m going to be happy to not be riding in a car once we get to Florence tomorrow.
1:00 p.m. – We arrive in Dublin and cannot find parking near our hotel. We finally park at a mall with a decent overnight rate, but I realize that we have to leave at 3:00 a.m. and there’s no in or out from 12:00 a.m. to 6:00 a.m. That would’ve sucked really hard had I not seen that sign. We decide to just go to our hotel to find out where we can park and move the car later. Our rooms aren’t ready yet, so we leave our bags with the clerks. They tell us about a parking lot around the corner that’s open 24 hours. We’re starving, so we decide to go eat first. We head to a restaurant around the corner that’s inside an old church. It’s creatively called The Church. I get a cajun chicken sandwich that’s okay with a hot whiskey and a cappuccino ($30.55). I’m still trying this cure. $30.55
3:00 p.m. – The car is moved to the correct parking garage. We go back to the hotel to put our luggage in the room and figure out our next moves. We debate doing a Guinness tour or a Jameson tour, but it’s getting late. Instead, we decide to do a walk around the town and go to St. Patrick’s Cathedral “for mom.” (T. and K.’s mom is very Catholic and loves to hear her kids went to a cathedral.)
5:10 p.m. – We make it to St. Patrick’s but it’s closing in 20 minutes. It’s $7.91 for entry (the woman will give us the student rate) but we’d have next to no time there. We decide to do it since we’re too late for a lot of other touristy things in Dublin (so sometimes, maybe you should plan ahead on trips). The church is gorgeous and we walk around admiring everything. There’s a quote on a memorial that I love: “Her life was one of unostentatious piety. Her end was peace.” Ostentatious has been one of my favorite words since Miss Congeniality taught it to me, and alternately, I love thinking of someone’s end as being peaceful. My mom’s end was not, so I consider people lucky to have a peaceful end. Too dark? I’m in a church. It’s allowed.
We are getting rounded up to exit the church as mass begins with an eight-person men’s choir that sounds incredible in the giant sanctuary. Well worth the $7.91! I light a candle for my mom with a euro T. hands me. We leave to explore the park outside. $7.91
6:00 p.m. – K. and I are still on the hunt for Claddagh rings and we find some at a stand in a mall nearby. I get two rings and a pair of earrings with a cool intertwined design. $30.50
6:30 p.m. – Swing by the hotel to drop off our stuff, then grab a quick drink at the hotel bar. There’s a sign saying “Management reserves the right to refuse people in football jerseys” which leaves me questioning what kind of shenanigans happened here, but it’s also Dublin, so. Probably drunk hooligans. K. declines a drink but T. and I have a lager and a Guinness, respectively. I pay. ($16.81) There’s a man outside the bar who is yelling a lot and kicking the garage door across the street from our hotel. We watch him warily, but as we’re from LA, this isn’t unusual so we sip our drinks to the yelling and banging sounds. Ah, peace. $16.81.
7:00 p.m. – We’re a little hungry, but we’re not starving so we find a restaurant bar overlooking the river. We sit down and pick out two apps, as well as wine to drink. We order and the server says: “And what are you having for your meals?” We’re confused, so we just say that’s it! He then proceeds to kick us out saying: “Come on, this is a fancier restaurant. You can’t just have starters and wine.” He’s wearing jeans. “Fancier” must have a different definition in Dublin.
Perturbed, we leave, laughing at the absurdity of the situation. The restaurant was also nearly empty. We were one of four tables, with approximately 10-15 open. Anyway, we go downstairs, newly paranoid that nowhere will let us just split appetizers and drinks. We go to the restaurant below, which is objectively nicer than the one upstairs, and clarify with the hostess that it’s okay to not get meals. She is confused at the question and says: “Yes, of course!” so we head inside. We get anchovy toast (amazing!), heirloom tomatoes with burrata (to die for), and T. decides to try a wild garlic and pea mac and cheese ($11.28 per person for the food). PSA: That is the best mac and cheese I’ve ever had. Incredible. Check out The Woollen Mills if you go to Dublin! T. and I get wine to drink, but K. declines the drink ($14.10 for my drink and T.’s). This place is way better than the jean-wearing snobs upstairs! $25.38
9:00 p.m. – We go back to our hotel and decide to just call it a night. We have to get up at 3:00 a.m. to return the rental and fly to Florence, so we’re pretty wiped. Sorry, Dublin, we didn’t see a whole lot of you, but we’ll be back, I’m sure.
Daily Total: $111.15
Day Seven
3:00 a.m. – It’s so early. We sleepily pack up and stumble to our car that feels even farther away at 3:00 a.m. in the morning. Also, “yelling guy,” as we affectionately coined him while sitting at the hotel bar yesterday, is still outside yelling and we hope he doesn’t decide to cross the street and yell directly at us. We get in the car and T. drives us to the airport.
4:00 a.m. – We figure out how to return the car (just park it and put the keys in a box), and we somehow find our way to our terminal. It’s not hard, but we’re just not all there. We make it through security without incident and wait for our early flight.
6:00 a.m. – We board without incident and eat weird butter and cheese sandwiches on the plane. When flying in Europe, you always get free food on board, even for short flights. They usually give you small sandwiches or croissants. My favorite is any type of meat and cheese baguette, so I would say the butter and cheese sandwich isn’t my favorite; however, I enjoy it just fine, but T. and K. are disgusted. I mean, it is quite literally a white bread with a thick spread of creamy butter and white cheese so. I understand the disgust, but a woman’s gotta eat. I get coffee with the sandwich.
8:45 a.m. – We deplane in Amsterdam, our layover, and the customs line we didn’t realize we’d have to go through is insane. We start to panic a little because our flight is boarding in five minutes. I finally flag down a TSA guy and he lets us cut, to which some salty Americans say to us: “Our flight boards in 30 minutes. Get behind us!” K., who is the nicest ever, gets salty back and says: “Okay, well ours is boarding right now, we’re all in the same boat. You don’t have to be rude.” They shut up but still don’t let us go in front of them, but in the end, our line moves faster and we haul it out of there before they do. Triumph! We are sweating profusely by the time we get to our gate and as soon as we are there, the flight gets delayed. After taking off layers of clothing, we finally board. Automated gates with scanners are such a great international treat (truly!) and make boarding so fast.
9:50 a.m. – We aren’t sitting together, so K. and T. sit together in the back while I sit up a little farther. I read some of my books and enjoy some alone time (as alone as you can be on a flight). The flight goes smoothly and we land a few hours later in Florence! Time to meet up with the parents and the rest of the family for the rest of our trip to Europe trip.
Daily Total: $0
How did you prepare for this trip? I try really hard not to prepare for trips, to be honest. I like to fly by the seat of my pants for European travel, but my boyfriend’s family are hardcore planners. We’ve been getting emails about the trip for about a year now, which has made me crazy. It stresses me out to think about things so far in the future when it’s not necessary – I’m not someone who gets very excited in anticipation of an upcoming trip, I get stressed and overwhelmed. I love to travel, but on my own terms. I have a dream after this trip of taking a long weekend in London (somewhere I’ve never been) alone. I just want to stroll the streets and meet interesting people, not be forced to go on a tour with the rest of the Americans.
My boyfriend booked and found all the hotels since he has an Expedia Gold account and he rented the car. I booked one of the flights but he found it and just had me put it on my credit card for points. I did a lot of the restaurant research on the trip (not before), because I had international data. I asked people I trusted for food recs and also did a lot of searching on TripAdvisor for quality places to eat. I think it worked out fairly well!
Did you use credit card points/miles to pay for parts of this trip? If so, please explain further: Nope! I spend my miles as soon as I accrue them, but have been saving recently (just not before this trip).
Do you have credit card debt as a result of booking this vacation? Nope! I spend my miles as soon as I accrue them, but have been saving recently (just not before this trip).
When did you book your flight? Do you think you got a good deal? We booked our flights in January of this year (about four months out). I think we got an okay deal. We were more concerned about timing because of work, so we focused on that. Our one-way flight to Dublin is more than I’d like to pay, but we wanted a specific redeye on a specific day and that’s just how it worked out. We are doing a lot of hopping around.
What was your favorite part of the trip? In Ireland, it was definitely the road trip. Though the drives felt long when jet-lagged and the different driving experience was a little tough at first, it was a great way to explore the country and a bunch of different cities. The countryside is beautiful and the sat nav in the car made it really easy to navigate even without phone data.
What was the best meal or food you ate while you were there? Wild garlic and pea mac and cheese! So amazing even though it doesn’t sound like it.
Is there a tourist trap you wish you had avoided? I don’t think so – while in Ireland, we did touristy things but they were worth it. We didn’t go crazy. We mostly wandered around the towns exploring, which is hard to translate to a diary we walked 15,000-30,000 steps a day in every city on our trip. We didn’t always see particular landmarks or famous sites, we just loved seeing the cities by foot.
What advice would you give someone who is traveling to the same location? Maybe do a little more planning than we did. I love flying by the seat of my pants but we really didn’t see much in Dublin at all and we also missed some exploring in Kilkenny. I should’ve read a little more about the history of the towns and some non-touristy things to do (beyond just wandering around, which I also love!)
Would you stay at your hotels again? Our hotels were all sufficient since we didn’t hang out in them too much. I don’t usually really care where I sleep as long as it’s clean so I’m pleased with the ones T. picked! We obviously didn’t love our hotel in Kilkenny but somehow had the best sleep of our lives? So I can’t even complain about that one. Maybe it was the ghosts.
Where were you located in a specific city and would you recommend staying in that part of town? In each city we went to, we tried to stay centrally. T. picked all of the hotels and there wasn’t one that felt out of place or like we should’ve stayed somewhere else. I think our Galway hotel was by far the most perfectly picked place, however. Right by a delicious café! And a few blocks from the water. I would recommend not staying on Temple street in Dublin because it was insanely crazy. It’s a party street. Unless you’re into that, then definitely do that.
Is there anything you wished you had time to do but didn’t? Everyone says the Jameson or Guinness tours are worth it in Dublin so I would’ve liked to see it for free alcohol, but I’m not sure I’m too bummed out about missing them. It would’ve been nice if we had a few bonus days and energy to travel up to North Ireland and explore around there. We heard from a lot of people that the Giant’s Causeway is amazing, but we weren’t anywhere near it.
Do you feel like you were there for the right length of time? Would you have come home sooner or stayed longer given the chance? I definitely think five days is plenty of time in Ireland for what we set out to do. I know I could’ve for sure stayed longer, though I’m not sure if my stomach could’ve continued to handle the amount of beer and french fries I consumed. I think I ate more potatoes in five days than I did in an entire year, and I’m not kidding.
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